Yes. down is on. 1 minute fix, not much quality control.
As a woodwork i have used hold-down clamps.
Question, with all the rivet joints in the clamp, can,t see it being a very good choice for transferring current for such a high tech device?
I think there is a lot more then the switch upside down in the demo.
I checked the resistance of the clamps (new) and it is quite low, effectively near that of a solid wire, except when backed off, where they are loose, and where the bolt screws into the rod, if it is loose, or perhaps if it were rusty. Pressed in, the clamps have a cam that multiplies the lever force and there is substantial friction in the rod guide barrel.
I neglected to mention last night the DC effect when I inserted the isolation transformer in series, plugged into the power control box.
The 26 to 30 mV DC signal at 30 V true rms disappeared altogether over the 1 ohm resistor and the Slab. The DC volts were wildly fluctuating with the minus sign flashing furiously. At all voltages it was the same. No useable DC reading.
I hypothesize that the old DC mV signal was probably the noise from the supply and power control, which I guess means that is pretty clean AC. The isolation transformer removed the DC to neutral signal by operating only with AC passed by the transformer.
Any DC current going through the transformer windings would be Joule heating the transformer windings and maybe even mess with (bias) the magnetic properties of the transformer core. I'm working out how to safely add a switchable 12V DC bias to the secondary side without passing it through the transformer. Maybe a 100 to 300 mV DC bias too (first). That can probably go through the transformer without worry.