Hematite dust

Starting the full blue.

TNJ

12 21 17

This is a mix clay body. mixing hematite in cone 10 clays will change the clay bodys to something needed for each plate.

mixing as per internet info...

Clay carbon mixes and why they make a good cap is my starting point for the first 3 plates.

12/29

adding in the template and a original unit.

I am thinking of using vacuum to pull the clay as it cools but I dont know if it will help.

In the original when zoomed in, the stop and starts are clearly rich in hematite locks to keep each area jumping to the next area from under the incasement.

The cath areas reacton through holes are being attched to the water circles in plate 3 for firing and, plate 2 will cage the cathodes nodes for - and + separation.

12/30

Something that still makes me think something is missing. If the timed spark jumps from a line electric field past or through the microparticles seeking a ground you would think the ball would use the path to excape unless the grounded surface suddenly after the strike held the entire charge for a microsecond giving time for the ball to seek a new ground path, Thats why I think the ground side will altar with the combination of air but not within its generated magnetic field power supply. Maybe the negative pole should be at the back of a built capacitor so the field could pulse neutral aftera hit from the cathode into the capacitore fill side and the air ground reacton can neutral the spark side. " Lightning / Sprite"

5 boxs clay start the kiln build, mixes for caths

1/1/18

Adding coils

1/11/18

Trashed everything and started new, I learn as I build.

Each part needs this paint brush like coats. built a new reactor face and have about 25 thin coats. about every four hours. Same pattern.

New pattern for the mercury rectifier, flower design to trap the mercury in a lower pool.

new design 1/13

Started the coil 1/16

The hub area is sealed in hematite clay, The outer tube area is encased with a mix with carbon rich hemclay block.

It needed to be built upside down for the cathode rods to enter the mercury pools for loading later.

6/18

sequential firing sequence pic. cathode start

1/27- info not as needed but helpful- https://www.sciencedirect.com/…cle/pii/S0169131710004230

Water float air dry hematite trapped I'm hoping is the trick to all this,

I added a vent/expansinion area and a salt water capacitor for discharge direction.

fingers crossed

1/28/18

Salt and sand compression , styrene mold style compression, no idea if any of it will work yet.

Lower tier set up, carbon lines and rotation

Adding the upper strike plate. like a points type distributor pulse spark discharge through the lower tier to a sparkplug fires into the strike plate as a condenser.imo

I'm just going to spill the beans

Some of you will figure this out in under a minute.

The rotation of the field, feeding it back in to itself, the under and over path ect.

lighning bolt in your face....."frightening"

The 4 post are help with ways to go around some potential problems

for using it.

Have fun.

Trout

Just to give some more details , I am suspecting that this design also causes a static charge pulling of electron as its pulses to a water surface ground to pic up higher voltage.

It just doesn't seem that hard to understand

its just a baby volcano event in a captive environment.

Yes, its a needed part to allow the reactor to breath and to get moisture for the hematite.

Moving the build thead if anyone would like to attempt it.

I'm building this from scratch so I dont forget to add any of the steps.

Just like the stone with the checkerboard pattern from one of your pic is a hematite path,

If you grind down into the raised area you would find the line of fused

hematite within a non-conductive casing. This will be the starting point of the build.

The few things that are needed.

1/4" paperback foam hobby board.

spray glue

fireplace type mortar "non metallic"

small paint brushs

band saw or razor knife

1/2" foam sheet 8x8"

8"x8"x 1" or so granite slab

Print 2 copys of this pattern. spray glue them to the foam board.

cut and remove the gap area and glue the parts to the 1/2" sheet foam in uniform. (1)

use a paint brush and add 5 layers of mortar or 1/4" high around the edge of each part.(2)

let each coat dry under a light bulb 10 minutes before the next layer.(4)

drill holes in all the open areas to help the parts dry after the pattern is

placed upside down on the granite slab to dry (3)

on layer 6 have the clean flat granite type stone ready for the wet pattern and place wet mortar side down on the granite gently (5)

leave the other pattern under the light bulb.

I use an old toster oven to heat the granite a bit at a time. dont overheat anything or it will add small holes within the mortar.

walk away for 12 hours, done for now.

Its much easier to remove the foam from the parts then most other plugs made of plastic or wood for testing.

Need a few more things at this point

Carbon block- brushes from a drill.

1/8" copper wire 1/8"

iron hematite crytal dust.

Use carbon dust and mortar to make continuity like wires in the unit.(1)

Add the copper/ nickel bronze welding wire in the 7 holes leaving 2" out the bottom.

seal them all with the carbon mix mortar and overlay the raised portion next to them, fill the star 1/2 way (3)

build a 6 finger star, cut three of the fingers 1/2 way up so the star will nest.fill the star 1/2 way with carbon mix mortar(3)(5)

start a new design from waiting....(4)

I don't have the tools to get any accurate math. I am using a flyback to see voltage spark increses or sound.

I was hopping some would do a short test of a known measurement to attempt the math,

Now I understand there are no tools for this high of voltage and would be difficult anyway

Apparently there is no way to test an increase from the chemical and abrasive reactions piggybacked on the flyback voltage.

It sounds louder would not be very convincing.

Its all bin done before theres nothing new only works if someone has built and tested this design in the past. I dont see any attempts.

This is fast and easy to do.

Please... prove I'm wrong.

Clean up and add the hematite/carbon to the lower tube track with overlap bridge one up and over for each circle

Add the path lines for the upper tubes and add the fill a bit at a time.

dry time.

If you made it to this point you should read - http://www.secretsofcoldelectricity.com

Appreciated Alan, I have processed everything from my front yard to this point but you can see I'm not very good at it.

When I go for the wave I will start hunting for the good stuff. Show and tell for now until I'm certain I will not knock out a satellites electronic ect.

I wish I could find more math for this. For now I'm trying to build the smaller "school type "version with a wave dissipation of half hemisphere to keep it weak.

Looking into what is EMP protected and not protected to determine risk from a bigger properly buid design. I'm still a chicked shit scaredy cat~

Eros. most of the hematite that will do the job is in larger granular size, not power or dust.

As you test ... "1 pulse at time", use your local weather radar to track the wave circumference and the bounce radius if you add the Iron crystal hematite within the circles.

Its best not to add the crytal if your only looking for power incresses.

This is a 3 to 6 single pulse dissipation of a 4' multicell design with crytal ~ Don't over do it.